When people talk about “types” of yumi, three different things get mixed together:
- Material: glass, carbon-reinforced, or bamboo
- Length: the namisun standard length, the longer nobisun, and so on
- Draw strength: how many kilograms the bow takes to draw
Of these, material is what most changes the price, how easy the bow is to handle, and how much upkeep it needs. Length and strength are set by your body, your draw length and your stage of practice, so they are a separate question from material.
This page sets out the three materials, and explains what is added to your routine when someone says “it may be time for a bamboo bow.”
What changes with the three materials
| Material | Handling | Upkeep | Where it is mainly chosen |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glass (fibreglass) | The easiest to handle | Little | From beginners to high-school and university clubs. The standard practice bow |
| Carbon-reinforced | Said to be lighter, with a stronger rebound | Little | When you are used to glass and want better arrow flight or a lighter bow |
| Bamboo (take-yumi) | Each bow is an individual, and it takes getting used to | A lot (stringing routine, storage, care of the nari) | Often chosen later, depending on your club’s and teacher’s view rather than rank alone, or where etiquette and the “feel” of the shot matter most |
The most important column is the second from the right. The difference between materials is not a ranking of performance. It shows up as how much upkeep you are willing to take on.
Glass: the standard first bow
A glass-fibre bow is generally said to be less affected by climate and harder to break, even if handled wrongly. That is why it is usually the first bow a school club hands to a new member.
- Its condition changes little with humidity and temperature
- You need not worry as much as with bamboo about leaving it strung (but leaving a bow strung is still something to avoid as a basic rule)
- It is easy to find another bow of the same draw strength, so a replacement feels similar
Glass is not “the cheap beginner bow.” In the period when you practise a lot, being able to concentrate on your own shooting rather than on the condition of the bow is a real advantage.
Carbon-reinforced: lighter, with more rebound
A bow with carbon added is said to be lighter than glass and to rebound more strongly. The price rises accordingly.
It is chosen once your basics are in place with glass, and you start to feel that the arrows do not fly as well as you want, or that the bow is heavy. On the other hand, if you move to a strongly rebounding bow before your way of drawing is settled, habits in your tenouchi (the way the bow hand holds the grip) and in your aim are more likely to show.
Carbon or glass is a question of stage before it is a question of taste. If you are unsure, ask your teacher whether it is the right time to move.
Bamboo: decided by the upkeep you take on, not by performance
A bamboo bow differs from one bow to the next, and its condition changes with the season and with how it is handled. The common feeling that bamboo is “something else” includes this changeability.
When you move to bamboo, the following are added:
- Stringing and string management (not leaving it strung, and managing how long it is strung)
- Managing where it is stored (avoiding dryness, direct sunlight and sudden temperature changes)
- Checking the nari (the shape and curve of the bow), and having it put right if it goes out of shape
- Going to a bow shop (kyugu-ten) or a bowyer (yumishi) when something is wrong, rather than fixing it yourself
In other words, a bamboo bow adds the job of looking after equipment. If you move to it at a time when this feels like a burden, your practice can drop off. Always decide the timing together with your teacher.
Owning a bamboo bow without a suitable place to keep it is a loss for the bow and for you. Care and storage are covered in Yumi Care and Storage, and carrying a bow in Travelling With a Yumi.
Two other choices apart from material: length and strength
Once the material is decided, the bow is still not decided.
- Length: there are classes such as namisun (standard) and nobisun (longer), and the length is decided by your height and your draw length (hikishaku, how far you actually draw the arrow in). The All Japan Kyudo Equipment Association says in its guide “How to choose kyudo equipment”: “The length of the bow is decided by taking into account height and draw length (how far the arrow is actually drawn in).”
- Strength: how many kilograms you draw. A stronger bow is not a better bow.
If you get these two wrong, a higher-grade material will not give better results. It helps to think of the order as length, then strength, then material.
Buying used: what to check for each material
For a used bow, what you check depends on the material.
- Glass and carbon: a difference between the left and right sides of the curve, wear on the grip, chips at the bow tips (urahazu at the top, motohazu at the bottom), and conspicuous scratches
- Bamboo: loss of nari, cracks, peeling, and how the bow was stored until now
A used bamboo bow is hard to judge. The safe way is to look at it where you can see the real bow, together with someone who knows. For used equipment in general, see Buying a Used Yumi.
FAQ
Which should I choose for my first bow? In many cases, glass. It is said to cope well with climate, and lets you build up practice without worrying about its condition. But your club’s policy and your teacher’s view matter, so always ask before you buy.
Will a carbon-reinforced bow make my arrows reach the target? If the cause is your draw strength or the way you draw, changing the material does not solve it. First check that length and strength suit you. A strongly rebounding bow can also make your habits larger.
Do I have to switch to bamboo once I rise in rank? It is not an obligation. But bamboo is often chosen where etiquette and the feel of the shot are valued, and you will be encouraged to try it more often. Decide by whether your situation lets you take on the upkeep.
Can I use a bamboo bow and a glass bow together? Some archers do. Glass for days with a lot of practice, bamboo for gradings and tournaments. But the two feel different, and how much switching affects you varies between people. It is safer to try it after talking to your teacher.
Does the material change how long a bow lasts? How it is handled and stored matters more, and the material alone does not decide it. Glass and carbon bows are also damaged by being left strung or stored in high heat and humidity. Bamboo shows changes in condition sooner. If you notice a problem, have a bow shop or bowyer look at it before you try to fix it yourself.
Summary
- “Type of bow” mixes three things: material, length and draw strength. The order of deciding is length, then strength, then material
- The difference between materials is not a ranking of performance but a difference in the upkeep you take on
- Glass is said to cope well with climate and is easy to handle. It is the standard first bow, not just a cheap beginner bow
- Carbon-reinforced is said to add lightness and rebound. The time to move is decided by your stage, not by taste
- Bamboo adds stringing, storage and nari care. Decide the timing with your teacher
- Used bows are checked in different places depending on material. Look at a used bamboo bow in person with someone who knows
For more kyudo equipment guides in English, see the English guide home page.
This page is a general overview (information as of 2026-08-18). Which bow to choose, its draw strength and when to change material depend on your build, your stage of practice and your club’s policy. Before you buy, talk to your teacher and a kyudo equipment shop. This site is an independent information site about kyudo equipment.