The bow is one of the most expensive items in kyudo, so the second-hand market is tempting. Outside Japan, a used yumi can also be the only one available locally, without international shipping for a two-metre object.
But a bow is not a purchase where “I got it cheap” settles the matter. Shoot a bow that does not suit you, and your form starts adapting to the bow instead of the other way round.
This page is neither “buy used” nor “never buy used”. A second-hand yumi is a purchase with clear things to check, and here they are, in order.
First: material changes what “used” means
The meaning of “used” is completely different depending on what the bow is made of. Mix them up and you cannot judge anything.
| Material | What “used” means |
|---|---|
| Glass (fiberglass) | The most common second-hand bow. Condition is comparatively easy to read |
| Carbon (glass composite) | Available, but fewer. Internal deterioration is hard to see from outside |
| Bamboo | A different thing altogether. It carries its care history and the previous owner’s way of shooting |
If this is your first time looking at used bows, start with glass.
For bamboo, have someone experienced look at it with you. A bamboo bow’s nari (成り, its working curve) changes with use, settling into a shape that suited the previous owner, and the next owner inherits it. Some are excellent; some cannot be put right. The differences between materials are covered in Bamboo or Synthetic Yumi?
The checks, in order
1. Is the draw weight right for you?
If this is wrong, nothing else matters.
- The marked draw weight (kyūryoku, 弓力) is what the bow measured when new. Use and age can leave a bow weaker than its label.
- Glass bows used for many years can lose weight.
- For what weight suits you, see Kyudo Bow Strength (Kyuryoku).
Do not decide on a number alone. On a used bow, the number may no longer be true.
2. Is the length right?
A yumi that is the wrong length for your draw (yazuka) cannot be adjusted later. The standard length is namisun (並寸); longer sizes are nobi (伸, e.g. ni-sun nobi, yon-sun nobi). See Kyudo Bow Length: Nami-sun vs Nobi-sun and the Kyudo Bow Length Table.
Length is where people compromise “because it was cheap”. It is also the one place you cannot.
3. Nari and twist
With the bow unstrung, sight along it from the top and the bottom to check it is straight.
- A sideways twist sends arrows somewhere other than where you aimed.
- A distorted upper or lower curve shows up in the shape when the bow is strung.
- An untrained eye can see both, but only by comparison. Looking at a single bow tells you very little.
If you can, look at several bows side by side. With something to compare against, the odd one out is surprisingly obvious.
4. Surface condition
| Where | What to look for |
|---|---|
| The whole bow | Cracks running lengthwise, whitish raised lines. Take these seriously on glass and carbon |
| The tips (urahazu and motohazu) | Chips or wear where the string loops sit |
| The grip | Ignore dirt here; rewrapping the grip makes it new |
| Joints in the laminations | Delamination. Avoid bows where layers are separating |
| Bamboo bows | Cracks in the inner and outer bamboo, condition around the nodes |
Do not be swayed by the grip. It is the easiest part to renew. Conversely, a clean-looking bow can be deteriorating inside.
5. How it was stored
If you can find this out, it is the most useful information you will get.
- A bow kept in direct sunlight may have damaged material.
- The same applies to bows kept somewhere humid, or near a heater.
- A bow left strung for a long time in storage may have a changed nari.
“How was it stored?” is a fair question. If the seller cannot answer, be cautious.
What goes wrong on online marketplaces
Auction sites and resale apps carry more bows than ever, and prices are attractive. Be aware of:
- Unreliable draw weights. Sellers often copy the label rather than measuring.
- No returns. If it does not suit you once you draw it, you are stuck with it.
- Shipping damage. A yumi is a long object. Poorly packed, it can arrive in a different condition from the one in the photos. Cross-border shipping adds distance and handling.
- Unclear accessories. Is a string included? A bow bag?
We do not recommend buying your first bow from a private seller. At that stage you have no baseline for what normal looks like.
When used makes sense, and when it does not
| Situation | Verdict |
|---|---|
| You need a stopgap bow while your draw weight is rising | Good fit; you expect to replace it soon |
| A used bow puts a better material within budget | Worth considering |
| Your first bow | Buy new; you do not yet have a basis for judgement |
| Your main bow for competition or grading | Fine if you can inspect it in person; do not decide from listings alone |
| You want to move to bamboo | Always look with someone experienced |
The “stopgap bow” idea is realistic. Draw weight increases with training, and whether to spend new-bow money on a bow you will use for a year is a fair question.
For reference, new glass bows in Japan are listed at roughly 27,390–60,500 yen on dealers’ official online shops, with the usual entry-level choices in the high 40,000s to low 50,000s, and the same model costs more in longer sizes: for the Chokushin II glass bow, 51,700 yen for namisun, 53,900 yen for ni-sun nobi and 56,100 yen for yon-sun nobi (Japanese prices including tax, before shipping and import costs; checked on 2026-10-06 at Heian Kyugu, Sambu Kyuguten and Sambu Kyuguten’s Chokushin II pages for namisun, ni-sun nobi and yon-sun nobi). A used bow is only a bargain measured against those numbers if it passes every check above. More on costs in Kyudo Equipment Costs.
After you buy
- Fit a new string. The old one carries the previous owner’s use. See Kyudo Bowstrings.
- Make a new nakajikake (the serving where the arrow nocks), suited to your arrows.
- Rewrap the grip. Your hand is not the previous owner’s.
- Have your instructor look at it. Right after purchase is the best time.
- Start with short sessions while you get to know its condition.
Do not skip step 4. Some things only show when the bow is drawn, and finding them early keeps your options open.
FAQ
How old is too old? Age alone does not decide it; storage and use matter more. Some bows over ten years old are in good condition, and some a few years old are worn out. Judge the bow, not the year.
Can I measure the draw weight myself? Kyudo equipment shops can sometimes measure a bow for you. Ask before buying whether a shop near you, or the seller’s shop, can do this. It is the surest way not to rely on the label.
There is a crack. Can it be repaired? It depends on the material and where the crack is. A fine surface mark and a crack that reaches the laminations are very different. Ask a shop that repairs bows, and do not try to fix it yourself.
I was given a bow my club no longer uses. Check the draw weight and length first. Club bows tend to have seen heavy use. Have your instructor check it before you start shooting it.
Should I avoid used bamboo bows? Not necessarily, but you cannot judge one alone. Bamboo bows vary widely and depend heavily on their care history. Look at it with your teacher or a shop that handles bamboo bows.
Related pages
- Bamboo or Synthetic Yumi?
- Kyudo Bow Strength (Kyuryoku)
- Kyudo Bow Length Table
- The Equipment You Need to Start Kyudo
This page sets out a general way of thinking about used bows (checked October 2026). Condition depends on material, construction and storage. For measuring draw weight, judging condition, or repairs, consult a kyudo equipment shop, your instructor or your teacher. We are an independent guide. We do not buy used equipment or repair it, but we can order new equipment from makers and shops in Japan for you — see Ordering from overseas.