If you have started kyudo outside Japan, arrows are usually the first piece of equipment you have to order yourself. Bows are often borrowed from the dojo for months, but arrows are personal: they have to match your draw length.
The confusing part is the price range. Two sets of arrows that look almost the same can be priced very differently. That is because the price of a kyudo arrow is set by two separate things: the shaft and the feathers. Once you look at them separately, choosing becomes much simpler.
The short answer
- Length first. The arrow length must fit your draw length (yazuka), with a safety margin added. This is the one thing you cannot compromise on.
- Weight that suits your bow. Ask your teacher.
- Buy a set of four or six. Sets of four or six are the usual way arrows are sold.
- Feathers are where most of the price difference comes from, and they are the easiest thing to upgrade later.
- Duralumin shafts are perfectly fine to start with.
1. Length (yazuka) comes before everything
The yazuka is decided by the length you need when the arrow is nocked and fully drawn. An arrow that is too short is a safety problem, not just a performance one. An arrow that is much too long is heavy and awkward.
You will find rules of thumb online, such as measuring your arm span. Use them only to understand roughly where you will end up. Always have your length measured in person by your teacher or by a kyudo shop. If you are ordering from Japan, measure at your dojo with your teacher present and send that number with your order.
We explain the measurement in more detail in How Long Should Your Kyudo Arrows Be?.
2. Shaft materials: duralumin, carbon, bamboo
| Material | Character | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Duralumin (aluminium alloy) | The most widely used. Moderate weight, and the price is kept reasonable | Beginners, and many experienced archers for everyday practice |
| Carbon | Lighter, and it flexes differently from duralumin | Archers whose teacher recommends it for their bow and form |
| Bamboo (take-ya) | The traditional material. The most expensive of the three | Usually a later step, once your form and length are settled |
Two points that are easy to miss:
- Lighter is not automatically better. Carbon is lighter than duralumin, but an arrow that is too light for your bow does not behave well. The right weight depends on your bow strength, so this is a question for your teacher, not a spec to maximise. See Kyudo Bow Strength for how bow strength is expressed.
- Bamboo is not a “better version” of duralumin for a beginner. It is a different material with its own care needs. Starting with duralumin is normal in Japan too.
3. Feathers: where the price gap really is
Kyudo arrow feathers vary by the kind of bird and whether the pattern is natural or dyed. This is the part of the arrow where the price difference is largest.
For a first set, plain practical feathers are enough. Feathers are also the part that wears out with practice, so this is the easiest place to upgrade later when you buy your next set. Spending your budget on the correct length and a sensible weight gives you more than spending it on feathers.
4. Why arrows come in pairs: haya and otoya
Kyudo arrows are counted in pairs. One pair is called hitote (一手) and consists of two arrows:
- haya (甲矢), the first arrow
- otoya (乙矢), the second arrow
The two are fletched so that the feathers are wound in opposite directions, and they are shot as a pair. This is why you will rarely see kyudo arrows sold in odd numbers.
| Name | Number of arrows | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hitote | 2 | One haya + one otoya |
| Yotsuya (four arrows) | 4 | Two pairs |
| Six-arrow set | 6 | Four arrows plus a spare pair |
For a beginner, a set of four or six is the usual choice. With only two arrows, one damaged arrow breaks the pair. A six-arrow set gives you a spare pair from the start, which matters more when you live far from a shop and a replacement takes weeks to arrive.
5. The order of priorities for your first set
- The length fits you. No compromise here.
- The weight suits your bow. Check with your teacher.
- Number of arrows. Start with a set of four or six.
- Feathers. The biggest price difference, and you can move to better ones later.
- Shaft material. Duralumin is fine to start with.
Ordering from outside Japan
- Send a measured length, not your height. Japanese shops quote yazuka in centimetres. Measure at your dojo and write the number down.
- Tell the shop your bow strength (in kg) so they can suggest a suitable shaft.
- Ask about shipping before you choose the length. Arrows over a certain length can be awkward to ship. Ask the shop or the courier how long a parcel they can send to your country.
- Prices are in Japanese yen. Check whether the quoted price includes feathers and nocks, and what shipping and import duties will add in your country.
For the rest of the equipment and what a full beginner set costs, see What Kyudo Equipment Costs and Kyudo Starter Equipment.
FAQ
Can I use archery arrows from Western archery? No. Kyudo arrows are much longer and are made for the Japanese bow and draw. Use arrows made for kyudo.
Should I buy carbon because it is lighter? Not by default. Whether a lighter arrow suits you depends on your bow and your form. Ask your teacher.
Can I buy just one arrow to replace a broken one? It is possible, but a single new arrow may not match the others in weight or feather appearance, and the same shaft and feathers may not be available any more. Many archers replace a pair (hitote) instead.
This page explains how kyudo arrows are generally chosen (checked: 2026-10-05). Lengths, weights and materials differ between makers and shops. Before you buy, confirm the details with your teacher and with a kyudo equipment shop.